Urban Durban and beyond

Durban is an interesting old place. After our first visit for the semi-final on Wednesday night, we returned yesterday for a proper look around. If we'd stuck to walking the streets of the city centre and visiting the Victoria Market, we'd have seen no more than a handful of other white faces all day. It felt like a proper African city, bustling with hawkers and street traders trying to compete with the modern shops they share the pavements with.

The market itself is a much more Indian concern, being part of the district where Durban's large community from the subcontinent is apparently based. I was slightly disappointed not to see more Indian folks around there, but I think the real heart of that community was further north, going into the areas which the Rough Guide only recommends for the braver travellers. I did have lunch in an authentic-looking Indian fast-food joint, a nice enough chicken roti roll which I then said hello to again later that evening.

Going back down along the harbour and onto the beachfront, though, and you're in a completely different city (Blackpool, possibly, only with more sun). The miles-long stretch of beaches feels very European and is clearly where all the whites hang out, although there were still plenty of black folks enjoying the sand and the general tack.

We then spent the evening in a modern, homogenised Casino and entertainment complex, which brought us completely full-circle back to somewhere that may as well have been London. Except for the fact that 90% of the gamblers were Indian folks, obviously. We also saw TOY STORY 3~! which needless to say is a film you really should go and watch.

Anyway, I think we're entitled to a bit of luxury and home-style comforts after spending so long in backpacker hostels in the open country. Most of these have been friendly and welcoming, although one thing I've found is that the advertised services aren't necessarily what you get once you arrive. Yes there is internet access, but only for 25 minutes every morning, and not on Thursdays. And there may well be showers, but that doesn't mean they will run at any temperature other than bloody freezing. And there won't be any towels either.

The last place we stayed before Durban was Sani Lodge backpackers, situated on the Sani Pass Road which then winds its way up the Drakensberg mountains into the extremely hilly kingdom of Lesotho. We enjoyed a spectacular day trip up the pass including a hike up one of the higher peaks, which was fine when the terrain was flat or downhill. Unfortunately as soon as my feet started the slightest of climbs I found myself gasping for breath, which must have been due to the altitude and not my feeble level of fitness. Yes, that's clearly it.

There was a great group of folks on the tour and we all enjoyed a drink in Africa's highest pub at the end ("enjoyed" in this case being a relative term - if what we drank was Lesotho's premium lager I'd hate to have tried one of their lesser brews).

Still can't quite believe we only have 4 more days here until we go home. This may not have been the most exciting post to read (assuming anybody is), but writing about this stuff is what really brings home how lucky I've been to have done this whole trip. Thanks for indulging.

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